We have always been accompanied by the existence of restaurants everywhere to this day and age, ranging from fast food drive-ins to varied cuisines of the world’s nations. The world of Japanese food has found its way into China decades ago, and out of the hundreds of thousands of Japanese cuisines in China, Ichiki Kano’s Japanese-styled Izakaya has been a highlight through its fascinating dishes as well as his piquing story throughout China. Beginning the exploration of Kano with an interview before, how he came to bring the amazing signatures of Japanese Izakaya to the Chinese food industry along with his background will be the center here.
Spending the past 20 years of his life in China, Kano had a unique relationship with the country beginning as a scholar. Kano came along with the opportunity of moving to China in his career because of his background for studying abroad in Shanghai, working as the photographer and video editor for Japanese tourists in China. As a man who studied in China in the late 1990s for college, Kano experienced the change of the country himself and the society of it too.
The question to Kano was: Do you feel easily accepted by the Chinese as a Japanese living in China? His answer was, “During that time, numerous roads were still under construction, and life was inconvenient—therefore when I first entered China, the conditions for a foreigner were quite different and filled with challenges. My appearance was a shock to some locals since the number of Japanese in cities of China was scarce, and for many it was their first time meeting a foreigner.” This was first when he came from Japan and studied in China. Later on, as Kano officially stepped into the trails of business and life in the country, he was also brought to the welcoming and open side of the community, with many unfamiliar faces stepping in and aiding him. Because of this, Kano’s decision to stay in China long after and eventually start a restaurant of his own passion was then lighted.
Along the same lines, the man did step into many issues beginning as a foreigner in China. In spite of being able to adjust to the Chinese society, many issues still existed in terms of Kano’s daily life throughout these years. When I interviewed him upon this topic, he did reveal some problems he encountered as part of the difference in language and culture: “The cultural difference between the Northern and Southern parts of China has also made me recognize a challenging point. There was once when I was on a Taxi in Northern China when the driver drove the wrong way, and even though he did not admit and claim his mistake right away, the driver still had a warm heart and offered a free ride. On the other hand, when I was stuck in a similar situation in the Southern locations of China—Shanghai, the driver there was not as kind on the inside even though he honestly admitted his mistake on the outside.” Not only reflected in Kano’s experience, but many Japanese business creators now in China have also been cheated on in differing areas. Similarly for Ichiki Kano, the man mentioned that the first time he started a business in Beijing, local cooperators around and supporting me also took advantage of my profits. Despite that some Chinese did take advantage of his identity and put him in challenging stages because of his difference, the open-minded spirit of China had engaged Kano greatly, himself loving the style of living in there.
Kano’s current focus, his Japanese Izakaya—a Japanese traditional restaurant bar—originated along with the man’s love for food and his culture. However, one of his careers before this business was what built up Kano’s experience and confidence into his restaurant today.
“I attempted to begin a bento meal company as a side occupation throughout my job as an editing photographer in earlier times; however, this business did not turn to success. Back then, there were much less companies that were in competition for the restaurant business, so if I continued that original idea, it would rise in state and success and could be a great addition to my current Izakaya.” Kano reflected over his past failures attempting over the same area he focuses on today as the creator of a restaurant of a foreign cuisine. Even if the bento business ended with some regret, the experience also led to Kano’s growth as a restaurant owner now when facing major falls.
Challenges, from small to big, could not be absent through Kano’s business experience. Within his current Japanese restaurant, small obstacles have also popped out that did put him into a state of challenge, but more so, a state of growth. A challenge point towards the business Kano created out of his passion is how the Chinese creates many forged products, especially in the restaurant and food industry. Plagiarism between stores did in fact increase his own challenges in a Japanese cuisine restaurant, but meanwhile also risen Kano’s chances to shine in front of the hundreds of restaurants out there.
Yet, the need for the ability to deal with fatal issues was reflected within Kano as what seemed like the biggest challenge he had experienced over all these years came to him—more specifically, his business. Kano’s Japanese restaurant bloomed with customers and highly amazing compliments around the opening in 2019, with every seat full in December of the same year. But a sudden hit of the COVID-19 changed the entire future of the restaurant. Just as the food warmed up in people’s mouths, the pandemic two months later resulted in a temporary closure of the store and took away the lively atmosphere. Kano’s words revealed how even though the popularity of the business gradually grew back months later, it never did go back to the high morale in the beginning. Under all the pressure from a potential failure of another company, Kano stood firm and strong, managing to fight and bring back his profits and success of his business. His urge and determination into doing so was because of his growth and the desire to create a better future and change the past.
Other than obstacles that struck his business as a whole, Kano also explained to us how he feels that developing the restaurant has been a great experience and also a very unique one. “My Chinese employees are all very eager to learn, holding lots of dedication within themselves everyday despite that the overall education the Chinese receive can be much less than Japan.” He replied with respect. This is another aspect why Kano has found starting a restaurant business a very different yet amazing experience than all his jobs beforehand. Like mentioned before, the mindset of the Chinese always brought admiration and interest among Kano himself, where he not only enjoyed the actions of his Chinese employees but also loved the difference in the living style of the entire society.
Furthermore, around the mindset of the Chinese society, everyone there has been a great support to Kano’s life and process fitting in with the society. Upon questioning, he claimed, “What I really love about Beijing is how like Japan, the social status among each individual is not the key. Thus, when I came to Beijing alone, many ones were very warm and welcoming to be supporting me.” The life spirit of an ecstatic and easygoing society really engaged Kano, as he took the help from locals as great support. From old colleagues in Japan to new friends in China, they have all been a significant part of Kano’s growth over years in China, especially towards those local citizens who have brought me enjoyment in this nation. In addition, Kano also shared an interesting noticing upon different parts of the world in contrast with the two countries by his heart: “When I was in Western countries, where you sit at a dinner between colleagues reveals your social status. As a Japanese within those dinners, the fact that Japan is a minority is easily reflected from where I sit. What I really love about Beijing is how like Japan, the social status among each individual is not important. Thus, even when I came to Beijing alone as a Japanese, many ones were very warm and welcoming to be supporting me.” For this reason, Kano really had China as part of himself and as a whole with the Japanese born with him, although there may be differences in culture and customs of the two countries.
Differences do arise between the two cultures of China and Japan in various ways, no matter by customs or by personality. Kano explained a point in relation to his words for the Chinese society. The respectable man explained how the Japanese are highly organized and often stick to the scheduled, where Chinese people are always willing to take risks and try varied tasks that appear new. “I really admire this way of taking action, which is why I always wanted to stay in China and continue with my career.” He responded. Kano claimed that he enjoyed the lifestyles here in China with a relaxed and openminded spirit, really loving to cooperate with his Chinese friends and getting accustomed to the life here. This man not only connected the bond between the two nations with his life actions, but also found similarity and enjoyment within each way of living. Starting from his first career, he embarked on the journey to connect Japan and China through his photography and editing company for Japanese tourists in China. Kano’s later contributions from Japan’s food industry to into China continued his relationship between the two countries he loved.
Aside from his career, Kano also was struck by a challenge through his personal life because of the same reason his business was in suffer. He said with hope, “Aside of all the great facts I love about China, my newborn daughter is currently waiting in Japan for me to return, so I wish to be connected with my family again, hoping the pandemic will end fast.”